Dabbling in Darmstadt

For our day in Darmstadt we split up once again, with Susannah planning a visit with former student Tiffany Liu at Energy Robotics. Meanwhile Nick planned to go sightseeing — until the woman in the tourist information office told him that no museums in Darmstadt were open on Mondays. Surely that couldn’t be the case? Unfortunately, she was completely correct. In lieu of museums, Nick spent the day exploring the city on foot. Armed with a tourist map of all the sights, he visited any that seemed remotely interesting. Some of the highlights appear in the captions below.

Everything is closed on Mondays
The German post delivers mail in the city using specially built bicycles
Bird of the day: A number of Egyptian geese could be found on the park lawns. Although native to Africa, they have been introduced to Europe as an ornamental bird.
This pillar in a geometric garden had sundials on all four sides. (Each was different from the others, due to its differing orientation.)
Although the porcelain museum nearby was closed, this church had its doors open
Someone painted this colorful rock by the side of the road
When we visited Mathildenhöhe the day before, we didn’t notice the sculpture behind the chapel
In the shadow of the city wall is this pingpong table with a metal net
The moat of the palace serves as a sculpture garden. This piece is entitled “Out Of Service”.
This sculpture is constructed out of stacks of gasoline cans
The city’s oldest church dates from the 14th century and has interesting roof details
Nick liked the expression on this stone creature

Meeting up at the end of the day, we picked up a portable dinner before heading to the train station for the 3.5 hour ride to Hamburg. Our lodging for the next two days is somewhat unusual: we’re in a small RV camper that is parked on a hotel’s rooftop terrace. Seemed like an experience worth trying…

Changing trains in Frankfurt
We arrived in Hamburg after dark
Our camper is Peace & Love, on the right
How cozy! (It even comes with a guitar, a record player, and an assortment of 1960s records)

Walls and Water Features

We said goodbye to Switzerland this morning and boarded the train to Germany. We are stopping in a few places where Susannah can meet up with former students and shadow them at their work. Our destination today was Darmstadt, a city slightly south of Frankfurt. Our hotel there is called the Moxy.

Some might accuse Darmstadt of being an unlovely place, and we might be a little hard-pressed to repudiate that claim. (Blame the Allied bombing campaign in WWII for its lack of many old buildings.) Be that as it may, we went for a walk after arriving in the late afternoon and managed to discover a few interesting and even charming features.

While this road is under construction, apparently it is important to keep the information on signage up to date.
A pillar erected to honor Ludwig the First, Grand Duke of Hesse-Darmstadt, ostensibly as a tribute from his loyal subjects

We were pleased to discover here and there some remnants of the old city walls that still survive despite the devastation of war. The locals clearly value them as well, since they designed a whole building to accommodate one such relic.

We also discovered a small but lovely garden, privately owned but open to the public, with a warren of cozily meandering paths punctuated by interesting and quirky sculptures. Many of these featured a theme of swirling water, and thus the whole place was called the Vortex Garden.

We also came across a number of interesting water features in the city outside the garden. Besides these, we saw the buildings of Mathildenhöhe and the Darmstadt Palace. The latter hosts a pleasant beer garden on its grounds, where we had a fresh pretzel with a toothsome crispy crust and a few half-glasses of different beverages. Nick tried the cider, which according to local custom is mixed with sparkling water for a refreshing treat. Finally, after we had finished our exploration we went for dinner at a restaurant with a Mongolian grill, which are hard to find where we’re from. All in all, a satisfactory day!

Clockwise from top left: surprise fountain in a pedestrian underpass, public lake with swimming and diving areas, fountains in city squares
Mathildenhöhe
Beer (small steins!), cider, and pretzels in the shadow of the Darmstadt Palace
Courtyard of the Darmstadt Palace. We could imagine carriages drawing up here for a nobles’ ball.