The Inside Passage of Alaska has been on many a bucket list since the early 20th century, when steamer lines began promoting it as one of the indispensable tourist sights of the world. We are fortunate to be here, courtesy of Susannah’s father and stepmother who invited us here on a cruise in honor of a landmark birthday.

Our voyage begins in Juneau, the state capital and one of the earliest of Alaska’s gold towns. Despite having three separate legs to our air travel, the westward journey passed smoothly and we reached at our first night’s lodgings at the Juneau Hotel without a hitch. We’re far enough north that it was still light out when we went to bed, and light again when we woke up. The four hour time difference meant that we were up early in the local time, and took the opportunity so scout the town on foot.

A city map picked up at the airport showed a number of trailheads accessible from local streets, including one intriguingly named the Gold Creek Flume Trail. This turned out to be a modern wooden boardwalk built on top of an 1890s flume that carried water to power the area’s first hydroelectric plant. Built originally to support the local goldmine, it became a city utility when the mine eventually closed. The trail was so scenic that we brought others back to see it later in the day. And did we mention the dangerous mountain goats? A sign at the trailhead warned us to beware.

Back in town, we stumbled on a parade in progress featuring local Haida and Tlingit indigenous groups in festival garb marching with drums and songs. It turns out that we happened to arrive on the date of a biannual gathering. Later there was a craft market, and we continued to see people wearing decorative clothing throughout the day. The artistic style is called formline, and can also be seen on buildings and public murals all over Juneau. It also features on totem poles, many of which mark the landscape here. Each character has a specific meaning and story, and occasionally an information board nearby would explain the details for the benefit of unenlightened visitors. Nick particularly liked one that included Raven with the Box of Light. According to the story, Raven kindly opened the box and thus provided sunlight to the world. A much better deal than Pandora was offered!

Our ship was not scheduled to embark until the evening, so for an afternoon activity we visited the state museum. This institution houses a collection about the history of the state. It begins with artifacts relating to the Native American cultures and way of life, and tells the region’s history including its colonization first by Russians and later the American government, through World War II and its effect on the state (then territory). Several rooms for rotating exhibits were devoted to the fashion collections of Dorothy Grant, a Haida designer known for including traditional motifs from her culture as an integral part of her work.

With the time that remained before embarkation, we explored the central district of Juneau (built upon piles of mine tailings that had been dumped in the water over many years to extend the shoreline). Among other things, Susannah insisted that we visit the local brewery to sample some Alaskan brews. Finally it was time to board our vessel, the Wilderness Legacy. We’ll tell you more about it in tomorrow’s installment.