Near the border between Switzerland and Italy there lies a pair of lakes that will look familiar to anyone who, like us, has spent time near the Finger Lakes in North America. Both lakes are long, skinny, and deep, betraying their glacial origins. These days Lake Como has the slightly hipper reputation, but Lake Maggiore also has a long history as a playground of the rich and well-connected, and is just a 90 minute drive from our hotel.

Near the lake’s center a small group of islands emerge out of the water. Once mere barren rocks, they have been built and shaped by human effort towards new purposes. One can see that they would have been most lovely in the days when they served as peaceful retreats for the wealthy Italian families who controlled them. In the present day they are still lovely, though the effect is somewhat spoiled by the hordes of sweaty tourists who come to visit. Today we were pleased to form a part of that throng and explore the islands with our group.

One must reach the Borromean Islands by water taxi, with one ticket granting access to all three of the main islands. Following the custom we began on Isola Madre, the largest of the three and farthest from our embarkation point in the town of Stresa. (Gustave Flaubert once described it as “the most voluptuous place… in the world.”) Most of the island is laid out as a botanic garden, which encompasses a wide range of different plants due to the mild climate. Paths along the shore afford views of the lake and mountains beyond. At one end of the island a villa boasts many lavishly decorated rooms. Perhaps most interesting were those housing an extensive collection of puppets and puppet theater machinery. Illusions of sun, waves, and fire were all possible, and unusual instruments could create a variety of sound effects. On one shelf there was even a miniature puppet theater, so that the puppets themselves could watch a show.

Although one ticket buys hop on / hop off access to the water taxi, what they don’t tell you is that there are at least six or seven different water taxi companies. So when you are ready to move to the next island, you join a throng of people waiting by the pier. As a boat makes landfall the driver yells, “Red tickets,” or “Blue tickets,” and the lucky holders get on while the rest fall back in disappointment. Our tickets were red, white, and green like the Italian flag, and we watched two vessels come and go before our turn finally came.

The second island is named Isola dei Pescatore after the fishing village that once stood there. Today it is the only island of the group that is permanently inhabited, although nearly all the buildings now seem to be given over to restaurants, souvenir shops, and perhaps the occasional Airbnb. One end of the island is pleasantly shaded with sycamore trees and has a pebble beach where people swim. The other end is built up with a little warren of streets, culminating in a church with a pointed steeple that soars up over the rest of the structures. We got lunch here, opting for take-away so as to leave ourselves time to see the final island of the group. We did make time for some gelato, and were intrigued by some unusual flavors offered by the local shop: orange-carrot-melon for one, and vegan pomegranate swirl for the other.

Our third island of the day was Isola Bella. It was laid out something like Isola Madre with both a palace and a garden, but executed in a manner that was clearly intended to one-up its sister island. The palace rooms were ornate and varied, with opulent furnishings and decorations seemingly fit for royalty. And indeed, there was a throne room (or audience chamber) among other features, although the highest title ever held by a member of the Borromeo family was Prince of Angera. Napoleon and his wife once stayed here overnight, and were roundly criticized by the staff (after their departure rather than to their faces) for their poor manners and slovenliness.

The palace included a number of other interesting features. A three story domed rotunda had once been intended as the main point of entry, but never had the chance to serve in this role since the planned grand harbor below it was never built. It nevertheless gave one a sense of grandeur. Now displayed in a glass case here is a model of the original plan for the island showing how it was all to have been laid out.

On the lower level of the palace, a number of rooms have been designated as “grottoes” and decorated in a rustic style with pebble mosaics on the walls, ceiling, and floor. Presumably these could serve as a change of pace when the nobles tired of the opulent surroundings above. Leading out of the grottoes was a staircase with some intriguing engineering: cantilevered stone slabs form the spiral steps, seeming to project into space without any support.

Impressive as the palace is, the gardens might just top it for splendor and decoration. The centerpiece is a courtyard terminating in a three story tiered amphitheater with statuary and plantings. Allegorical figures are everywhere, often appearing in groups of four: the four elements, the four seasons, the four winds, etc. Also prominent are references to the Borromeo family’s heraldic supporters, the unicorn and the camel (an odd choice perhaps, but they did start out as a family of merchants). We barely had time to see all of these gardens before catching the water taxi back to Stresa, and from there up the many switchbacks on the road to Ivrea.

This evening, back in Montestrusso, those of us who were not too exhausted by our day gathered on the castle terrace for pizza and wine. We sang through all the songs we have learned this week, and watched the sun setting behind the mountains.